четверг, 22 апреля 2010 г.

Summer, sun, ice and snow

You might guess I gonna tell you about some wintertime exploits. Well, you can’t get to that place in winter, though there is a way – you just need to dig a tunnel in 2-meter thick snow :-)

That’s why we climb on the Pogrebetsky Summit in September.
The weather is just fine, and there isn’t a single cloud in the sky. The sky is so blue you want to dive in as into the immense sea.
We get to Shymbulak ski resort by car, and then go on foot to the Mynzhilki dam. After a couple of serpentine roads, we pass by the turn to the Molodyozhnaya meteorological station and enter the sand arena in front of the Tuyuk su glacier.
It’s the afternoon, the sun pleasantly baking our backs, the tent set up, and the soup is nicely gurgling in the pot - such is the idyllic setting of our first day. By 8pm we get fully enwrapped by night, with its first stars and ermine eyes twinkling in the dark.
Slowly the moon is appearing from behind the Molodyozhny Summit. We have a walk before going to sleep, looking at constellations, watching stars and wishing the falling ones J Night temperature slightly goes down below zero. Our outfit, sleeping bags and the tent covered with polythene film hardly keeps us warm. Anyway, we fall asleep.
I get up the first. It’s still extremely cold outside – I try to wash my face but all I see around is ice.
Trying to warm myself up under first rays of the sun, I melt loaves of ice on my portable gas stove. We get to our breakfast and discuss our climbing plans.
We need to march off as earlier as possible, while bristly glacier surface has not turned into a running and babbling water flow.
Ahead is the Pogrebetsky Wall, the glacier sharply turns to the left towards Tuyuksu Summit, one push more and we are at the Tuyuk su Pass (2B, 4,100 m).
We whack into the rugged ice crust and step onto the Wall.A panoramic view of Tourist Pass and Ozyornoye Canyon opens up, and we can see the trail – a traditional tourist itinerary to the Issyk Kol Lake.
It’s a pure pleasure to walk on the Wall. The only thing, you need to keep to the southern edge, as the northern part contains lots of very deep and sometimes hidden splits.
When you need to maneuver on the rocks and ice and snow.
Right in front of the Summit, it seems that we are hitting it, but the relief is playing with us, keeping us away from our final destination point.
Two more tugs, and we are on the vast flat surface of the Pogrebetsky Summit (4231 m).
Its majestic pure white heaps of snow bridges the southern Tuyuksu glacier circus between Tuyuksu Pass and Locomotive Summit.

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Winning Komsomol Summit

If you’d look at the mountains from Almaty, then the highest point you’d see would be the Komsomol Summit. She looks so appealing that you can’t help winning her :-)
Throughout its history, this summit has changed its name for three times: Maloalmatinskiy, Komsomol, and finally, Nursultan. I personally prefer the second name as I was born during Soviet times. Since 30s, when the first Almaty alpinists mounted the Komsomol Summit, the alpinism era has started in Alma-Ata, and in all Kazakhstan.
The day is going to be pretty hot (over 30 degrees), but not for us.
As always, we start on a very early morning from Almaty. An hour later we are at Shymbulak ski resort.
Hopping on ski lift, we enjoy green slopes and alpine meadows, but with our ascension green plants disappear and we get into the harsh and beautiful world of rocks and snowcapped mountains.
Turning to right from the Talgar Pass (3,200 m), we pass an old moraine, and in some 2.5 hours after we step onto Bogdanovich glacier. Global warming left just a narrow strip of ice from it. It is hard to believe that such change could occur in just 10-15 years…
We have a short break at the foot of Zimin Hill. Drinking tea, having nice conversations …
What we see ahead of us is the dazzling white sheets of Komsomol glacier. First, we climb on slide rocks, then traverse the glacier, then again on rock slides. 3.5 hours more and we are on Komsomol Pass (4000 m).
To our right is Karlytau Summit with its enormous ice-glass cap;
to our left is granite heaps at the foot of the Komsomol Summit. From the pass one can catch a glimpse of huge Left Talgar Canyon gaping below. And far away – with its grand five thousand meters, Talgar Peak. Right below us is the small but amazingly exquisite Aristov Peak.
We begin mounting on rocks right to the summit with 2B complexity category.
Last meters are the hardest, - well, it’s way above 4000 m above the sea level!
Hurrah!!! We hit our goal.
For quite a while I am just lying on a flat rock and look at the clouds rushing violently through unbelievably blue skies. From Komsomol Peak you can grasp phenomenal panoramic view of the central Zailiysky Alatau mountain range with peaks of:

- Amangheldy (4000 m),

- Pioneer (4031 m),

- Teacher (4045 m),

- Heroes of Panfilov’s Division (4120 m),

- Manshuk Mametova (4194 m),

- Antikainen (4000 m),

- Great Patriotic War (4050 m),

- Mayakovski (4208 m),

- Ordzhonikidze (4410 m),

- Partisan (4390 m),

- Tuyuksu Needles (4213 m),

- Tuyuksu (4218 m),

- Pogrebetsky (4231 m),

- Locomotive (4182 m),

- Zoya Kosmodemyanskaya (4108 m),

- Molodyozhny (4147 m).
The sun is setting and we have little time for descent. Darkness catches us up nearby the Zimin Hill, but further we can keep going without much concern since we have safely left the zone of splits and bergshrunds.
At 9pm we hop on our car and at 10pm, we are at home :-)

If you want to join our weekly tours, call +77775958270.
mountain.guide.alex@googlemail.com




вторник, 20 апреля 2010 г.

Kazakhstan

Geographically Kazakhstan is a part of Central Asia. Kazakhstan is more than twice as big as the four other Central Asian republics put together and is roughly half the size of mainland USA. The landscape of Kazakhstan is diverse. The northern forest-steppe turns into steppe, half-deserts and great mountains in the South.
Almaty is the largest city in Kazakhstan and the former capital of the Republic. The population of the city is over 2.000.000 people. Almaty is a multinational city where various Nationalities.
Capital of Kazakhstan - Astana is an important industry and cultural center of the republic, also very modern city with skyscrapers and palaces in hi-tech style.